Montoliu grows what he needs for his restaurant, a traditional barraca, one of the white-walled, gable-roofed thatched houses that you see dotted among the fields of La Huerta. Diners pick their own vegetables and Montoliu cooks what"s required – often as part of a rabbit and chicken paella, his star dish – and then gives them any surplus to take home. It"s the epitome of slow food, or "zero metres", as he calls it.